June 11, 2025 Wednesday

Day 12 of our trip

Miles driven today: 334; Total miles for Trip: 3,477.4

Gas Mileage today 36.2 mpg, average of 31.6 mpg for trip

Total elapse driving time 58 hours, 36 minutes

Our final trek to Anchorage begins today.  Up around 6AM, slept well.  Light late and early, with twilight in between.  The small cabin has no blinds to keep out the light.  We didn’t need the heater last night.  We’re still full from last night’s dinner so we take off down the Tok Cut Off road.  It’s a sunny day, partly cloudy.  Leaving at 8AM, the road is good and then turns to heave, going through permafrost and lots of bog in between the Alaska Mountain Range and the Mentasta mountains.  We reach the Richardson highway and head to the Glenn.  We begin to see two of the three area volcanoes, Mt Drum and Mt Sanford; they are 15K+ feet and fully glaciated.  There is so much snow on all the mountains with some laying in the lowlands.  We stop at the Glenallen Visitors Center; the same older lady is there who we have met many times.  A longtime resident of Alaska’s remote towns and a former teacher and librarian.  Quite a character.  We get some info from her and buy a couple things.  I think she gets paid for this parttime job.  We stop at the IGA, we have never been in there before.  It is a well-stocked store with a good variety of products and very nice staff.  They have a coffee bar and cold deli sandwiches and salads.  We buy some to eat on the way for our noon meal.  The road has good stretches and then goes into heaves that can bottom you out and some potholes.  There is construction here and there.  It’s not too remarkable riding with thick forest on each side but then the mountains come into view.  We enter the valley between the Talkeetna Mountains and the Chugach.  Both beautiful in their own way.  The Talkeetna’s have some very strange formations and different color minerals coloring the rock.  The Chugach are high elevations of craggy peaks; densely snow covered with many glaciers cascading downward.  We reached Eureka Summit and can’t believe how many people are building up there.  It’s still barely early spring there.  We follow the Matanuska Glacier for a while, still impressive and long.   The road is narrow and winding often without guardrails.  We follow the Mat River all the way to its ending in Knik Arm.  We stop briefly in Palmer to use the restroom and get gas. It’s a very busy place and they are working on rebuilding the library roof that collapsed under heavy snowfall 3 winters ago.  We’re in sun in the high 60’s as we pass Pioneer Peak there’s a lot of road construction especially around the fairgrounds.  The Knik River bridge is having work done.  The rest of the highway is very familiar as we pass through the towns.  We stop at a car wash on Dimond, we badly need it.  We passed through very little rain and glacial dust is always present.  We arrive at the apartment around 4PM, glad to be home.  We have brought a lot so lugging it all up the stairs to the third floor is trying and it is very warm even at 70 degrees and breeze.  We finally get everything inside and then the unpacking.  Got most of it done but very tired.  Dean’s game is tonight but we’ll have to forego until the next one.  The laundry baskets are piled high since we don’t do laundry along the way.  Although the ferry does offer a launderette for a fee.  Finish a few things tonight, get a good night’s rest.  More tasks tomorrow and hooking up with family.

We were in Ak February-March, North Carolina in April, back to Ak in June. And lots of home stuff in-between; time to stay in one place for a while.  We are blessed with the ability and health to do these fun travels to be with family and friends.  We are grateful for the kindness of strangers and for those who we will never know who provide services that keep us safe and give comfort.  This blog is being written to reflect what is happening in the moment and provide memories.  We check in with news as we feel it is our responsibility to stay engaged.  We are very disappointed with President Trump and a Congress that does not provide checks and balances.  In these few short months. we have traveled by plane, car and ferry from sea to shining sea.  As we travel this great land, we are more aware of our diverse population and our many shared freedoms making up our fragile democracy.  We are bound together by the Golden Rule that requires tolerance, the Constitution, the rule of law, the Bill of Rights and the Declaration of Independence.  It is a proud heritage, worthy of our caring, energy and prayers to preserve; long may it continue as our legacy for future generations.

Nighty night!

June 10, 2025 Tuesday

Day 11 of  the Trip

Miles driven today: 297.7; Total miles for Trip: 3,143.3

Gas Mileage today 33.8 mpg, average of 31.1 mpg for trip

Total elapse driving time 52 hours, 16 minutes, 10 seconds

Awoke to sunshine looking out at the snowcapped mountains.  We were incorrect about time changes.  We did bounce between British Columbia Time Zone (briefly) and Yukon Time Zone.  We are on YT until the US border, so one hour later than Ak Time.  We awake 7AM YT and head to Village Bakery for breakfast.  So yummy and still funky, we sit out on the deck, it’s about 45 degrees no wind and sun.  A group of Canadian National Park workers are gathered getting ready to start their day’s work. 

Our hotel was not very busy so very quiet. 

It didn’t get very dark last night as we move north.   We travel next to the St. Elias Mountains.  We pass Mt. Logan, second highest mountain in North America; it sits among the highest coastal peaks, 19.5k – 17.5k.  This is where great glaciers still flow with slow retreat.  They are very beautiful. We are in the lowland forests with lots of rivers and streams, yet the land it very arid.  We come to Kluane Lake, so huge, ringed by Kluane Mt Range.  It seems relatively calm given past conditions.  We pass Sheep Mountain and think we see two males on the slopes.  We stop at Burwash Landing, a small native village, and visit the museum.  So humble looking outside, inside very sophisticated displays.  Their gift shop has a good selection of local native made crafts.  Chuck buys Pat red deer skin gloves with arctic fox trim and beaded red rose on each.    Afterward the road gets more difficult with potholes, washboard, and heave.  We watch the high St. Elias alongside with glaciers and snow cover some new. Large glacial rivers fill the valley and the White River carries old volcanic ash so it is named.  We stop at Beaver Creek, last town before the border.  At the Visitor Center we are greeted by an elderly but very spry town character, so nice and welcoming.  Moved from Alberta in early life and prefers the -40-degree Beaver Creek winters with no prairie wind.  We pass through a very large burn area from 5 years ago.  We are told there is still a fire burning from last year ‘over the hill’.  But he feels completely safe after more than 60 years there.

The Visitor Center is modest but beautiful log cabin.  We stop at the roadside gas and ‘grocery’ for Canadian Birch Syrup and stock is way down.  Through US border quickly and revert back to AK Time.   Permafrost and large bog drainage areas contribute to road conditions in YT and some in Ak.  But there is a lot of roadwork being done around Northway and we have to contend with it. But will be better in the end.  The huge Tanana River runs through the broad valley between mountain ranges with hundreds of streams, ponds and lakes.  If one trapped beaver this is where you’d come.  We have not seen any wildlife other than rabbits and occasional bear scat. 

We pull into Tok and it’s only 4PM so we check into the cabin at Tok RV.  The same cabin as in year’s past.  We stop over at a fave gift shop with Bucky the Moose.  It’s all burled logs and so beautiful.  The owner, Patsy, longtime resident makes crafts to sell besides a large selection of native and Ak themed items. She makes homemade fudge to sell.  She is our favorite crafter/vendor of moose nugget ornaments.  At only $4.00 per it’s a steal, considering what the shops in Anch are selling for.  And these are real Tok nuggets made by a real Tok resident.  She starts in December and plants seeds for flower baskets.  By April they are ready to bloom in a hothouse and she hardens them off.  The front of the store covered porch is filled with every color of petunia, geranium and other types of potted plants for sale.  One day t=our car won’t be so full and we can buy one for the apartment.

On to dinner at Fast Eddies, our regular restaurant.  We are waited on by our former waitress who is Athabascan.  The food is good and beer is cold.  We walk back to the cabin and finish the blog.  It’s still early and still light but it won’t be long before sleep beckons.  This travel stuff is tiring more than we know.  The cabin has two double beds with a shower/commode and sink area with a microwave and fridge.  Each cabin has a desk, small wall mounted TV an a heater on wheels.  Tomorrow is Anchorage, end of the road with our voyage into Ak.  Don’t know if we can make Dean’s baseball game at 7PM, depends on how soon we can unpack at the apartment.  Heard from Seth today.  He and Carrie are making plans for Ak.  Hoping to spend some time with them while they are there.

Nighty night.

June 9, 2025 Monday

Day 10 of the trip

Miles driven today: 166.2; Total miles for Trip: 2,845.6

Gas Mileage today 33.2 mpg, average of 30.9 mpg for trip

Total elapse driving time 46 hours, 5 minutes, 20 seconds

Slept well last night.  Up around 6:30 AM, we are docked in Juneau.  It is heavy clouds and raining.  We missed the sail into Auke Bay when we would have seen the cityscape so we don’t go out.  Auke Bay is way out of town and not very scenic.  We decide just to have coffee and save our appetite for the Roadhouse outside Haines.    

The Columbia has been offline for 1 year for overhaul.  Not sure what all they did, it’s kind of hit and miss.  The Wi-Fi is new.  Our beds were comfortable for Pat and less so for Chuck.  End of the hall location was very quiet.  The barking dogs were only heard in the first couple hours of the sail.  They seem to be well staffed and able to keep up with the work.  

We packed our gear last night. While we are docked Chuck takes    most of it to the car so when we unload later it goes quickly.  Our energizer bunny Equinox is filled to the brim.  Our cabin is on the same deck as our car, so no stairs or elevators to contend with landing in Haines.   

The snow on the mountains between Juneau and Haines is still heavy and lower with high waterfalls from the melt off the steep walls. The rain in Juneau was left behind and we get partly cloudy skies with some sunshine.  We’ve warmed to the 60’s.  

We load the car easily but end up having to wait for an hour to get off at the Haines dock.   How the ferry staff figures out all the ins and outs with a variety of vehicles and their various destinations is awesome.  And they are very competent and pleasant.  

Once off the ferry we head to Chilkoot Lake, following the short salmon stream to the lake and its beautiful setting.  Then on into Haines with a stop at our favorite coffee shop.  The stores are pretty much closed so we travel on out of town along the wide, braided Chilkat River.  The Roadhouse is closed much to our surprise. We pass through Canadian customs without any problem.  We start the climb upward and go back in time with elevation changes, from full lush spring to early spring to late winter.  We go through time zone changes but Chuck says they are now same as Ak due to daylight savings time.  At the highest points above tree line there is snow on the ground and streams are mostly frozen. The high St Elias peaks are heavily snow and glacier covered with fresh snow on them.  it is hard to describe the beauty of these wide-open spaces where various mountain ranges converge. The road is in very good condition and they provide pit toilets along the way. There is a rare cabin from time to time.  No cell towers, no electric or phone lines.  Real wilderness.  We have seen a lot of bear scat on the roads since Haines, so they are out of hibernation!  As we descend from the high-country spring returns to the wide-open valley that contains Haines Jct. There are native villages in the area, some off road that require river travel. But it is obvious this area had a very hard winter and now a late spring.  But we enjoy the sun as we enter Haines Jct.  We go directly to the Village Bakery for dinner as it is only open until 7PM and it’s 5PM on arrival.  VB is as nice as we remember, a funky log cabin among the pines with an eclectic menu.  We sit outside at picnic tables to eat our dinner. One of the tables is speaking French. To our surprise Tim and Maria from the ferry are at the next table. They have taken our suggestion for VB and glad for it.  We head to our fave hotel, the AlCan in Haines Jct, and get the same room as years before.  Tim and Maria head to Beaver Creek at the Canadian Border.   The room has microwave, small fridge and is large with two queen beds.  We have Wi-Fi and able to catch up on emails.  The evening is beautiful and sunny with cool breeze. Sunset will be late as we are in the north.  Our room overlooks the snowy mountains around us.  We won’t be able to visit the Native Center this time, maybe on the way home. Frost tonight?  

So grateful for good travel conditions and friendly people and for those who provide services for our comfort and safely.  

Nighty Night. 

June 8, 2025 Sunday

Day 9 of our trip

Sailing today

Slept well last night.  Up around 7:30AM, we are docked in Ketchikan.  It is heavy clouds, cold wind, but not raining.  We stay on board the 4-hour layover for staff change.  We have been in Ketchikan many times but with the heavy traffic with the docked cruise ships we’re not interested.  We don’t need supplies or want to go to a restaurant.  

We called Dean for his 9^th birthday today and were able to have some face time.  He shared all his BD gifts, his new art and crafting.  Quinn runs by showing us her missing 2 lower teeth.  We are excited to see the family.  We will have a delayed BD celebration when we arrive.

The shower in the cabin is full force with lots of hot water.  The sink has a push handle that gives short bursts of water.  Have been drinking the water and it’s pretty good.  We are on nautical miles now but requires a calculation to road miles.

We take our chairs onto our usual side deck, the water calms down, wind drops and some sun makes it more pleasant.  Not many use this deck as there are no chairs provided but is one designated area for smokers who come and go.  The scenery is lovely with misty clouds touching huge forests of low mountain treetops; why it is a rainforest area.  We see 5 small pods of Dall’s porpoises and many eagles.  

Landed in Wrangell, overcast, no rain.  The Stikine River muddy waters meet the ocean blue.  The docking is not simple for the ferry, lots of side thrusters. The little gift shop in view is closed.  This stop is only 20 minutes and we have visited the shop in the past.  He is hardcore trapper who goes to a remote cabin in the St. Elias mountains that rind Wrangell and spends the winter trapping.  A smaller cruise ship is in port but leaves before us.  Wrangell still the quiet small town but now experiencing landslides too frequently.

Early dinner in ‘fancy’ restaurant; earlier gets the center tables in front of the big windows.  Food was good as was service.  Met up with Tim from Oregon; he and wife Maria on their way to Fairbanks to visit his mother. Tim was raised in Nenana.  They have lots of questions about going up the highway out of Haines.  We give them some tips.  They go as far as us to Tok and then continue up the Richardson Highway to Fairbanks.  It is rainy fog as we pass through the Wrangell Narrows.

We land at St. Petersburg for about 20 minutes but it is so foggy we don’t bother to go outside.  We have seen Petersburg in better weather in the past.

Into bed, asleep by 11PM.

Nighty night.

June 7, 2025 Saturday

Day 8 of trip

no driving today, just sailing

Awoke to full sun and cool around 7AM Ak time.  Slept well in our lower bunks last night, Chuck saying we did have some turbulence but mild.  Bathroom door is weighted and self-closing as are all ferry doors for safety reasons.  But visits in middle of the night half asleep dealing with heavy doors is a challenge.  AM starts out with smooth waters, so we have a lite breakfast in the room and lots of coffee from the grille.  Then we hit Queen Charlotte Sound and the ferry goes into deep rolls, side to side, up and down.  We are in front of ferry so we are really feeling it.  Pat is not normally seasick but seems like today is the day.  After a brief up-chuckie I need fresh air and move to a stabler part of the ferry.  It’s all I can do to wash up and put on clothes while hanging onto anything that will steady me. And still feeling like up-chucking is probable.  Chuck finishes his breakfast and decides to take a shower.  He has to hold onto a grab bar to stay upright and water splashes out of the shower onto the commode floor.  Getting dressed for him was also a challenge, but no up-chucking for him.  Once outside, it helped some.  As soon as we hit calm water it was a miraculous recovery.  A half hour later I was able to finish my bagel and coffee!  We spend the day on the side deck outside our cabin with our folding chairs.  It gives us a view of only one side of the ship but it is nice and quiet and light wind.  We only see occasional jumping salmon, white moon adult and baby jellyfish and one big orange ruffled one, we see two otters.  We are told there was a pod of Orca last night seen at a distance.  Still a big deal since they are rare to see.  The scenery is beautiful as always.  The high tree covered hills meet the sea with not a sign of human life to be seen and in the distance is a zig zag of snow covered big guys, the Coastal Mountains.  Have not seen much fishing yet. Going to dinner at ‘fancy’ restaurant tonight since we are pretty hungry and need a relaxing time.

Wi-fi access is new on the Ak ferry system and access is quick and consistent.  It does kind of change the experience but inevitable.  It used to be you had to lay back and keep the outside world from invading; especially now with daily baloney reports from the Grifter in Chief.  We are not on it a lot, just enough to check news, emails and blog.  Was nice to watch Steven Colbert and Seth Myers on You Tube before sleep, but daytime we are on deck watching nature take its course.  Seth has sent his and Carrie’s Ak travel schedule and we have Brenna’s to help us navigate the time we have.  Rainy, cool Anchorage, bad for baseball and golf, good to keep down fires.

We pass through beautiful vistas of tree covered fjords.  As we travel further north there is still snow at high altitudes and leftover avalanches.  The water is very calm.  We are getting dark since we are still pretty far south. 

Dinner in the formal dining room; the menu has 8 entrees, halibut and salmon, steak and chicken 2 pasta dishes and two large entrée salads.  Chuck gets the steak dinner and is pleased, it includes side of corn and baked potato and he gets a side salad.  Pat gets the Linguini Alfredo with 4 shrimp, it’s fair nothing special and a large side salad.  We try the red and white wine and both are very good.  Every table gets rolls and butter.  Chuck gets peanut butter cheesecake.  The service is very good and friendly.  No tipping allowed.  Linen tablecloths and all glassware and ceramic settings. Our table is located in the front of the large windows with a panoramic view of the narrow water we are traveling through.  A humpback whale (likely a young male) blows out air and gives us a brief wave with his tale.  We move back to our fave spot and set up our chairs.  Hard to describe the beauty and ultimate wilderness we see.  A female humpback and calf blow hole a hello to us as they pass in the distance.  The sunset is beautiful.  It’s been a nice day of sailing minus the early morning.  LOL.  Ketchikan in the morning.  Anxious to see if we have the usual rain.  They continue to have landslides and it seems to be something they will have to contend with.

Nighty Night.

 

June 6, 2025 Friday

Seventh day of our trip

Miles driven today: 20; Total miles for Trip: 2,687.8

Gas Mileage today 33.1 mpg, average of 30.8 mpg for trip

Total elapse driving time 42 hours, 53 minutes, 29 seconds

Awoke to full sun, light cool breeze.  We spend the morning relaxing on our balcony overlooking the Bay.  We can see the Ak Ferry Columbia has docked. Coffee and sweets offered in the Hotel Library complimentary.  

Check out at 11AM but able to leave the car in the Hotel parking lot while we walk around.  The Hotel is a treat with its amenities and location.

We walk around Fairhaven and visit a few shops.  Essentially shops are specialty high end and a variety of interesting cafés and restaurants.  Village Books and Paper Dreams (specialty gift store) is very nice housed in an old brick building built on the hill.  Entry for both is on the upper streetside level; lower-level entry is streetside down the hill to book store and the Colophon Café.  We sit outside and have an excellent early lunch overlooking the town green.  The wall next to us is old quarried stone with arched brick windows, the iron pegs for shutters that once were there along with flower boxes and inset windows.  Very country French looking but also authentic. 

The town is built on hills and moving around requires steep climbs.  We drive toward Bellingham and stop at a park, don’t know the name.  It has a mile long boardwalk bordering the water.  We get excellent pictures of the ferry and views all around.  This climate affords an abundance of flowering and leafed plants, many very exotic, beautiful everywhere you look.  

We travel to the Bellingham Cruise Terminal to get our tickets.  Visit the Samish Gift shop, no buys this time.  A casual seafood restaurant and small maritime museum are here.  The concrete patio sits next to the ferry.  

We board fairly early.  Our car along with us in it is put on an elevator and we are lifted to the upper car deck. We go to our cabin and unpack.  We are located on the prow of the ferry beyond the purser deck; end of the hall no traffic.  This level sits above our car deck and occasionally we can hear the dogs secured in vehicles below.  It’s a large suite with two bunkbeds, sink and closet area, a sitting area with round table and 4 chairs. A toilet/shower combo room.  A large window that only allows a view from one side if we stand at it.  Front of ship does a lot of rocking, good things we don’t get seasick (so far).

We sit in our folding chairs on the outside upper deck and enjoy the views of Fairhaven and can plainly see our Hotel and our room.  

We watch as more vehicles board, quite a show.  What they transport is amazing; huge boats, truck/trailers and an amazon RV with an attached vehicle besides all the cars, RV’s, pulled trailers and motorcycles.  

Once onboard we are instantly on Ak time.  Throughout this trip we vary between Ak, YT and BC time zones.  Finally, all boarded and we sail out of Bellingham Bay.  The sunset is incredible shades of candy pink to coppery orange and aqua sky.  We will get dark this far south.  A quick lite dinner at the grill.  The fancy restaurant another night.   We settle into our room for sleep.

Nighty night.

June 5, 2025, Thursday

 Sixth Day of our trip

Miles driven today: 224.4; Total miles for Trip: 2,667.8

Gas Mileage today 33.1 mpg, average of 30.8 mpg for trip

Total elapse driving time 41 hours, 53 minutes, 29 seconds

Wake to full sun it looks to be a very warm one, 60’s.  Breakfast: eggs, sausage/bacon, yogurt, shared muffin, banana, coffee to go.  Leaving around 9AM today as we only have about 200 miles to go and our hotel check in is 3PM.  Across the bridge we enter the Cascades moving away from the Columbia.  Even this far north its size and volume have great effect on the area’s climate.  The higher mountains further on still have some snow on them.  The amount of snow pack determines water for growing because it is extremely arid.

We follow the Wenatchee River supporting crops but the valley narrows as we climb; the river is swift and high with snow melt.  Many of the higher peaks (10-11K) are snow covered and the sides are heavily treed.  We see a dramatic water fall from the spring melt that likely will disappear by August.  It’s a bright sunny day and a very pleasant drive.  We pass through the town of Leavenworth; it has reinvented itself into a Swiss Alps theme and a big tourist area.  We pass through a couple high passes; one of which takes us to snow level at a ski resort.  As we decline the effects of the ocean can be seen in the lushness of the plants.  We stay in the mid 70’s the rest of the day.

We join up with Rt 5 in Everett, heading north.  The highway is its usual four lane busyness.  This is the Skagit River Valley with acres of agriculture and cattle.  We pass over a few large rivers that form estuaries with the ocean.  Mt Baker is in view and very clear; one of the glaciated volcanoes in the state.

Mt. Baker

We take Rt 11 known as the Chuckanut Drive that offers an alternative driving into Bellingham.  The first part is flat farmland bordering the ocean, tsunami warnings are posted.  A few miles in we are stopped, a huge landslide has occurred.  We returned to Rt 5.  Once in Fairhaven (suburb of Bellingham) we drive the Chuckanut from that end.  Gorgeous close valley and forested drive, very curvy and narrow.  We drive to Taylor Shellfish Farm, a one-way narrow track through the woods, down a steep hill, it required a traffic light to allow traffic to move.  We reach the business; there are very casual shed type buildings that serve as the café with outdoor dining as well on the water.  We can see islands and Olympic Mountains.  Oyster beds are floating all around.  We get a selection of Washington oysters and a salad.  Very expensive but a very authentic experience.  

The one-lane road

The road is closed ahead so we turn around and stop at Larrabee State Park to check out the facilities and amenities.  Great place to camp.  We check into Fairhaven Inn in the middle of town.   This is a boutique hotel with beautiful antique facility and decor.  Our room is large, 2 queens, with a balcony overlooking the Bay; we can see the ferry terminal in the near distance.  

Pictures of our room

Pictures of the interior of hotel

They offer us a free glass of wine; they have set up a small outdoor area bordering the street for drinks.  The bar, café, library and reception areas are lovely.  

Enjoying free glass of wine

We move on to the Black Cat restaurant for dinner.  The streets are like San Francisco’s hills.  The Black Cat is located in a lovely old building with an open center and a series of ornate wooden stairs leading up to all levels.  Our BC table is by a window with view of the Bay, we have a lovely meal and good service.  

Interior Pictures of Black Cat Building

We stop at the multilevel book store that includes a restaurant.  We walk through the city green that is across from the hotel.  

We end the evening on the upper-level patio and watch the sunset.  We enjoy the same view from our room. 

It has cooled off and it should make sleep relaxing; the gulls are still calling.  Tomorrow we will get on the ferry.  Reports say Anchorage is having very rainy and cool season so far.  Bummer for Dean’s baseball games.

We are thankful for good weather and safe driving.

Nighty night.