September 11, 2025 - Thursday

 Day 13 of trip home

Miles driven today: 381

Total miles driven: 3669

Rise early, finish packing, have sit-down breakfast in Hotel and on road by 8:00am. Have to take a detour to get on I294 due to construction. Once on the interstate we travel around Chicago with no stoppage, what a surprise as traffic going the other way has backups extending 5 miles or more. More construction in Indiana, our lane mores at a steady speed unlike the West bound traffic.

We arrive home safely at 3:00pm, just 6 hours of driving, but 7 hours elapse time due to time change into Eastern time zone. Unpack the car and start going through things. Pat notices a very large hornets nest hanging from a lower branch of our one tree. (note when we get up on Friday morning it is gone, raccoons or other critter must have gotten to it)

end of blog

September 10, 2025 - Wednesday

 Day 12 of trip home

Miles driven today :  468

Total miles driven: 3288

September 10, Wednesday

Awake in Albert Lea around 6:30 AM after a quiet night and nice beds.  It is heavy fog this morning after a night of heavy rain, 50’s.  We skip breakfast to do lunch later.  Fog lifts as we move east, huge windfarms on each sign of the road.  We head north through big agriculture area, rich farms with well-kept homes with landscaping and out buildings.  Small rural towns are well kept.  Corn and soy beans are king here.  We end at the town of Lake that sits on the Mississippi River.  WE are following the Great River Road on the Minnesota side.  The river forms large lakes and then narrows into sloughs, back water areas.  We stop at the tourist town of Wabasha named after a revered native American leader in the past.  It’s a beautiful tour town of beautiful small homes with a fun downtown with small shops in historic building.  There is a high-level bridge that allows access to Wisconsin.  They have an emphasis on Art and a Farmer’s Market we will miss by a couple hours.  The National Eagle Center is located here in a beautiful building with nice displays and gift shop. We don’t go into the Center but learn about the largest colony of bald and Golden Eagles nest here, a distinction from Alaska.  They have a river side walk with a lovely waterfalls and statue of Wabasha.  They surround the center with a pollinators garden of indigenous plantings.  The river is running swiftly through this area.  Moving on down the road we stop at Kellogg advertised as place of interest.  Didn’t see what it, except for a big Trump support sign so we moved on.  We begin to see the bluffs that are advertised in the area.  High hills with steep riverside, but trees are thick and difficult to see the sandstone layers underneath.  We drive through the large city of Winona, the County seat.  Large downtown with mix of small businesses and shuttered shops.  It is a major port for tugs and barges to pick up grain, it’s a huge operation.  Onward across the bridge to Wisconsin and a long drive east.  We pass through a lot of farm land with temps 70-80’s.  I90 east has moderate traffic and smooth driving conditions. We pass into Wisconsin with no issues.   Pass into Illinois and change to Central Time, now an hour earlier than home.  The traffic is thick with rush hour and construction which adds at least an hour to our driving.  Finally make the Sheridan Hotel, now owned by Marriott, south of Chicago.  The sun is intense and mid 80-s. The cicadas are very loud in the trees. We heard our first crickets in Gardner, MT since Ak and Yukon.  We have salad from the onsite café and a few drinks from the bar in our room.  It was 10 hours travel with 1 hour of it with stops.  Trying to relax as we prepare for our final day of travel, east on I80 (turnpike) to home.  We have breakfast coupons so will likely have the meal and then prepare to drive through to Hudson.  Looks like the weather will be fine for the drive.  Hoping the rest of the Chicago area driving is not so crazy.

We likely won’t blog tomorrow because getting home will be tired and busy. Last travel day September 11.

We will have been traveling for 13 days; 9 beds, 4 nights on the ferry, forest fire smoke all along the way.  Blessed with safe travel and kindness of strangers.  But it will be good to be home in our own surrounds and beds!  Yeah!!!!

September 9, 2025 - Tuesday

 Day 11 of trip home

Miles driven Today: 461

Total Miles Driven: 2820

September 9, Tuesday

Awoke in Wall, SD, Mountain Time.  Sunny, breezy, mid 60’s.  We got to the central activity building for breakfast.  It is an excellent breakfast with variety and quality in a clean, well maintained serving area.  The indoor and outdoor pools are attached and they are high quality.  Head east on I90, smoke is still in the distance.  The land becomes completely flat until we cross the Missouri River that has some rolling hills leading to it and from it, back to flat.  Temps rise into the mid 80’s.  Nearing the border, we transition to Central Time so estimating our travel is based on MT but being aware of the hour later arrival time is to know.  We enter Minnesota and the rich flat farmland, lots of corn.  Fields of wind turbines show the commitment to sustainable energy.  We stop at a new service area all done by LEED standards, complete with sod roof, newly planted tree variety and a prairie bog holding indigenous plants for pollinators.  There are placards explaining how they are embracing the original prairie lands and early living practices.  We are following storm moving in front of us to the east.  It is unclear if we see smoke as storm clouds have moved in.  We stop at a Best Western Plus at Albert Lea, just off I90.  We have stayed here before and nice quality in a quiet area.  We walk a short distance to the Applebee’s where we had a good meal in the past.  It starts raining as we reach the hotel.  We will take a brief detour north to reach the Mississippi River and follow it through a very scenic area.  We are in the low 70’s, hoping it drops overnight to help cool off the car.  Back to our comfortable room, resting and prepping for the next day.

September 8, 2025 - Monday

 Day 10 of trip home

Miles Driven Today: 355

Total miles driven: 2,354

September 8 Monday

Wake up in Sheridan to clear skies and can see mountains clearly but as we moved along I90 east the smoke returned to distant mountains.  Lots of cattle ranching, hay is main crop.  We took an alternative route 44 off of I90 at Rapid City, South Dakota, still on Mountain Time.  We have never taken this route which circles around the Badlands from south to east through National Grasslands with large cattle ranching including large herds of buffalo kept separate from beef cattle.  It is a barren and rocky area with scrub plants; there is not much grass so must be supplementing with hay and feed.  Water has to be drawn up through wells.  We go through the small town of Interior, (population 94),  that has one restaurant serving local beef and a couple churches.  We enter the Cedar Pass gate of the Badlands national park with our lifetime senior pass for free.  It is very overcast but we are still in the mid 80’s.  Since the Badlands are right off of I90 and easy to visit we usually visit the visitor center and drive through, always a treat for viewing.  Our route brings us right into Wall, SD, home of Wall Drug.  We are staying at the Best Western as in the past.  The main area is two story no elevator, rooms are simple and clean with all amenities.  We drive into downtown a mile away, it’s still tiny with kitschy restaurants and shops.  We eat at the Badlands Saloon & Grill, returning because their pizza was so good on a former visit.  Pizza was limited in what we could get eat in, so go with personal pan pizzas and they were not as good.  Walked across the street to famous Wall Drug with many rooms of merch and kitschy animated music characters.  It’s a fun place with a big variety of mementos.  Back at the hotel, TV and Internet, ready for bed.  Lots of AC turned on making sleep comfortable.

September 6, 2025 - Saturday

Day 8 of return trip    

Miles Driven Today 462

Total Miles Driven:  1674

September 6 Saturday

We changed from Ak Time to Pacific Time in Washington.  We are now in Mountain Time.  We leave the Townhill Suites in Coeur d’Alene there is still smoke in the air.  Coeur d’Alene Lake is huge and beautiful, there is a drive around the lake someday.  The drive from Panhandle Idaho into Montana is beautiful.  We go through a couple high elevation passes and then follow the river in the valley with the peaks raising beside us.  The smoke is getting worse and Pat is feeling it in her throat and lungs, now wearing a mask and having the air recycled in the car.  Montana is its usual geologic wonder but the mountains are ghostly shrouded in smoke.  At lower levels the sun shines through.  There is no smoke break and we realize it is not a good time to take the special northern drive outside Yellowstone Park we had planned.  We finally see some clouds forming, the first since we traveled through the Cascades, yet the smoke persists. We stop in Butte, MT at the Library to use the Internet.   We cancel the Billings, MT reservation and our changed route will be in Sheridan, WY instead that will take us back onto I90.  We go off I 90 and head south following the Yellowstone River, at the base of the beautiful and ominous Absaroka mountains.  We enter Gardner, MT, a tourist town next to the YT Park entrance and the Roosevelt Gate.  We stayed here last year but this year we are across the river at the Park Hotel.  An old house with individual apartments, large room, queen beds, large bath, small kitchenette.  

Park Hotel

We have been in the high 80’s for the day and it is very humid, yet the ground is so dry it’s really to burst into flames.  Fire warnings are given.  We walk to dinner at the Iron Horse, along the river on their patio, we had dinner here last year.  We walk across the bridge to the local grocery store, its small but well stocked.  

Views from bridge in Gardner

Picked up some items for breakfast and snacks.  Weather says we will wake to 40’s,it’s a full moon but not likely to see it with smoke.  It’s also supposed to rain tomorrow afternoon.  We walk to room and ready for bed.  There is some scat on the property not sure what animal is visiting.  Earlier we crossed over the Continental Divide at over 6400 ft elevation.  This are has the strangest rock formations which is saying something for MT.

Night view from our hotel

September 7, 2025 - Sunday

  Day 9 of return trip    

Miles Driven Today 324

Total Miles Driven:  1998

September 7, Sunday

Awoke to cloudy skills, breezes, not sure of the smoke status from here.  But looks like they will be getting rain.  The smoke creates its own weather which can bring lightning strikes.  We eat our grocery breakfast and take showers in the huge walk-in cobble stone shower.  This place tries to be very primitive with rough woods, antlers and wrought iron, bear pictures, but with all amenities.  We decide to continue out of the Lamar Valley but take a southern route.  Sorry not to make the northern scenic drive but dicey with fires and smoke.  Beds were big and comfortable.  Lots of hot water.  Big wall TV with satellite access.

Enter Yellowstone Park by the Arch. Beautiful scenery as always, so many geological features but the smoke it makes anything elevated misty and outlined.  We see pronghorns, some bear sign.  We pass Mammoth hot springs.  The springs are huge with slow drip and the little village is beautiful with its buildings.  We have always seen elk here and there is none to be found, in face we don’t see any elk this trip and that is not our past experience.  We take the north road into the Lamar valley. They are putting in a new bridge across the Yellowstone River.  The valley is vast and wide following the Lamar River.  It’s sunny at 60-70 degrees.  Clouds are forming with some open sky.  People are using high powered spotters to find Lamar wolf pack but we don’t see anything.  Lots of buffalo herds are along the river with new calves.  None on the road this time. 

Wildlife near the road in Lamar Valley

Elevations in the area range from 9k to 13k so the rivers fall taking boulders with them and most are filled with boulders and rock until the lower valley.  We opt to change our plans and head up the Beartooth Highway.  We go out the north east gate and the towns along the way are small and very quaint.  Different from Gardner.  Campgrounds say No Tents; bears are impacting with less traffic and human presence entering the extreme remoteness of the National Forest.  The peaks around us are some of the tallest in the area, up to nearly 13k.  Unfortunately, the smoke creates a misty outline.  We continue to climb up the Beartooth that is closed in winter.  There are no fires reported in the area and we will not have many chances to see it because closed in spring and future fires.  We crossed over to Wyoming from Montana in the park.

We are back in Montana. We climb and climb with incredible views through curves and switch backs.  Higher up there are isolated lakes and lots of rock and boulder, above tree line with lichens.  Interesting we have seen all colors and varieties of flowering plants.  Eventually we reach Beartooth Pass at nearly 11K, highest point we have ever traveled.  It is barren and wild land here at the top but the views are spectacular, but would be even better if it was clear.  

Views from Beartooth Pass

We’re in cooler low 50’s.  We see The trip down is very trying with severe curves and switchbacks that demand constant attention.  There’s a lot of slides that has to be controlled with wire mess and concrete coverings.  Eventually we reach the valley and still pass over the Yellowstone River.  It’s wide with agriculture as it’s economy.  We pass an Amish buggy; one small town seems to be their settlement.  We’re back in mid-80’s and very humid.  We work our way back to I90, our route home.  We pass through Billings, Mt, where we originally were going to stay.  Lots of refineries here.  Onward we pass back into Wyoming high barren roaming hills and land in Sheridan for the night.  We have smoke mist all around on the mountains and a few spits of rain.  We are staying at the Marriott Fairfield Inn just off I90, most of these have had recent updating or built new.  It’s Sunday so lots of businesses are closed.  We choose McGregor’s Steakhouse on the other side of town.  It’s newer restaurant that sits across from a golf course and nearby residential neighborhood of new homes.  It’s a modern building with a limited menu.  We sit outside on their deck with a view of misty mountains.  Waiter confirms it is smoke we are seeing.  Back at hotel, time for sleep.

September 5, 2025 - Friday

 Day 7 of trip home

Miles driven today 388

Total miles driven to date 1212

September 5 Friday.  Woke around 5:30AM and get ready for departure.  We go to the car at 7AM, we wait about 45 minutes until we drive onto the elevator taking us down to the departure area.  The fog is clearing, it’s about 66 degrees with sun coming out.  We drive south and then head east onto the Cascade Trail.  The ocean fog is still in the area and mists the mountain peaks.  We pass through the rich ag area and small towns.  There is a small town along the way we should go to if and when we return.  The heat is into the 70’s and travel from sea level up to the 4000+ pass elevation.  The west side of the Cascades are moist from the ocean, once on the east side the dryness becomes obvious.  We thought it was fog at first and now we realize it is fire smoke.  We travel the river road with high craggy peaks above.  It’s scenic but the smoke is obscuring them.  We stop Leavenworth that is now a tourist Bavarian Village.  We eat at the same Icicle Brewery as in the past.  Food is good.  Now in the 80’s and heavy smoke in the area.  

Picture taken in Leavenworth showing smoke from nearby fire

We leave the area but smoke prevails.  On into the Columbia River Valley and further ag area. Flush with produce and shipping but now in the 90’s.  We see more smoke all through to Spokane  We are staying at a brand new Fairfield Suites in Couer d'Alene.  We are told there is a fire in Spokane and area fires as well.  The smoke hangs heavy.  We think we are the first people to stay in our room.  It is pristine new.  We get take out pizza from local and eat in the room.  Enjoying our room and the bed will be luxurious compared to the ferry.  Tomorrow onto Yellowstone.

September 4, 2025 - Thursday

 Day 6 of trip home    

September 4 Thursday 

wake to rain.  Sat in room using the Internet.  Then went out to the main deck in the clearing fog, low wind and good views.  See a couple dolphins swim by and a small humpback whale breaches and blows in the distance.  Dinner in the fancy restaurant. Service is still slow and uneven but food is good.  Back in room we prep for leaving in the early morning.

September 3, 2025 Wednesday

 Day 5 of trip home

September 3, Wednesday

Awoke on the Ferry. Awoke in Ketchikan with heavy fog.  We decide to stay on board as we have been in Ketchikan several times before.  We spend time catching up with email and getting lunch from the Grille and eating at our room’s table.  The fog clears and we take our chairs to the side deck watching as the ferry departs.  We enter fog outside Ketchikan so we take the Scramble game to the shipside bar.  A drink and free popcorn and two games of Scrabble.  Dinner in the fancy restaurant.  Service was better the Cobb Salad was outstanding.  Back in cabin ready for sleep.

September 2, 2025 - Tuesday

 Day 4 of return trip

Sept 2 Tuesday

Awoke to full sun around 8AM.  Slept pretty soundly and totally missed the middle of the night Juneau docking.  We are entering the passages around Sitka and we can see Mt Verstovia in the background.  We have not been able to see Mt. Edgecombe the volcano on any visits.  A cruise ship is just docking next to another one.  There is no room near downtown to dock.  So that means the downtown is flush with tourists.  Been there done that twice.  We could take a bus into town for $10.00 each but decide we only have 2 hours including the ride to and from and not much newer to see so stay on ferry and eat an early lunch.  Out on the deck in the sun waiting to sail.  The wind has really picked up.  Even though Sitka is protected by small islands the open ocean is still impactful.  The wind is too great and we take our chairs on the side deck outside our room.  No one goes there as they don’t have chairs for seating.  We see three small black porpoises chasing fish.  We pass through narrow passages with close up views of the beaches.  There is a lot of spruce kill on the low mountain sides from spruce beetle infestation and landslides on steep sides where tree roots have died.  It is very scenic and enjoyed until the sun shines on us and it is intense.  So, we just move our chairs into a covered area with Chuck napping and Pat doing crossword puzzles.  We go to earliest dinner giving the fancy restaurant one more chance.  We are seated at a table with full view of the water at the rear of the ferry.  But the sun coming through is so intense and hot we have a quick enjoyable meal and leave.  This time service is quicker but we notice some people are still having trouble getting waited on.  We get our chairs and sit on our ‘private’ deck.  The sun is starting to set and we have great views on our side of the ferry it is warm and the sun is not on us.  The water has only small ripples it is so calm, easier to see any whales or other activity. We do see two whales spouting in the distance although one we could see if briefly out of the water with its tail.  The ferry is only doing about 15 miles per hour, cutting through the still water like butter.  The sky turns turquoise with light pink strands.  The water turns gold in the sunlight.  Eventually we get fuchsia pink strands on the turquoise that turn brighter and then into lavender.  The sunset is bright orange and then eventually as it sets on the horizon, we get bright red like it’s on fire.  We see the Coastal Mountains coming into view.  We are entering the Wrangell-St Elias ranges with growing elevations and glaciers.  Canadian Mt Logan only second to Denali, US Mt Elias is third.  The moon is about 2/3 and hangs like a white ball and seems so close.  As it darkens the moon turns that same golden yellow color.  It is dark and as we get closer to the big glaciers and sun is disappearing the air is getting cold.  Back in our room preparing for sleep.  The four berth cabin with its table and four chairs allows us the comfort of accessing computers and room enough to move around.  We will dock at St Petersburg and Wrangell in the middle of the night; we will miss the narrows that is enjoyable.  Waking up in Ketchikan.  Good night. 

September 1, 2025 - Monday

 Day 3 of return trip

Miles driven today:  196

Total miles driven:    825

Sept 1, Monday

Awoke to full sun and beautiful views of the mountain range across from our hotel.  We are on Yukon Time that is an hour later and very briefly we enter British Columbia.  Later today we will be back on Ak Time and will be on the ferry.    It is cool and still, no frost.  We go to Village Bakery around 8:30 for breakfast.  We eat outside on the deck surrounded by aspen trees. The food is excellent as usual.  We get sandwiches to go and head down the road.  It is very early fall here with some foliage change.  The road is excellent condition.  We stop off at Lake Kathleen, a glacier fed lake that has lake salmon in it, never entering the ocean.  An endangered species.  Today it is still, very different from the winds that come through the valley.  This means small insects are numerous and annoying.  We drive above tree line with wilderness all around.  Bear sign tells us they are on the move prepping for winter.  This 125-mile drive Is a fave in any weather.    We have a steep descent into the Chilkat River valley.  We enter rain forest with tall trees and lush foliage.  We pass through the US customs easily.  The rest of the drive follows the great Chilkat River that is a commanding presence shaping the landscape, breeding place for salmon and largest bald eagle gathering in the world.  Haines is in late summer.  We drive directly to Chilkoot River and Lake.  River is beautiful with huge boulders and lined with fishermen. No sign of bears today.  The fish counter is active with spawning salmon. We stop briefly at beautiful Chilkoot Lake. Today the dense forest is dappled with sunlight and not looking so dark and forbidding.  We stop early at Ak Ferry office to check in.  Into downtown Haines.  Many stores are closed for Labor Day.  The one gift shop we have liked in the past now has small stocks of grocery items with the gifts.  Not an improvement. Go to IGA for a few snacks for the trip.  We find a small quiet park just above the water.  We picnic there but realize it is a tent camping site accessed only by foot or bike.  We are the only ones there so it’s all good.  Stop at Visitors Center for a brief chat.  Take time to arrange our luggage for on board the ferry.  We take a quick drive out of town to the old scenic cannery, where the ocean meets the Chilkat River.  We see otters for the first time in the area.  Back to ferry and get in line.  We watch the Columbia sailing from Skagway to Haines and docking.  We are put on the elevator and hoisted to the upper parking deck.  We are able to walk directly from the car to the deck of our room. We got the four berth large cabin with table and chairs, bathroom.  It is chilly sitting on deck watching the scenery go by as the sun sets.  We see a couple small blowholes, maybe porpoises chasing salmon?  We attempt dinner in the fancy dining room but the service is chaotic and we are not getting waited on.  So we go to the grille for our halibut sandwiches.  It gets dark early and a strange golden half moon is shining.  Settling in for sleep.  We have WiFi now and it’s nice to half but does change the experience a bit.